Destination · East
Sidemen: the rice fields of the east, without the crowds
Sidemen suits those who want terraced rice fields without the Tegalalang crowds, to walk between the fields and to slow down. Allow two to three nights, about 1 h 45 from the airport. Few restaurants, narrow and steep roads, and almost nothing to tick off: that is precisely the point.
- Updated on
- From the airport: about 1 h 45
- 2 to 3 nights
- 6 min read
- By Kylian Dev
Contents
Key points
- About 1 h 45 from the airport, on narrow valley roads.
- Two to three nights: the charm lies in the pace, not in a list of sights.
- Hillside accommodation has the view, but the access roads are steep and poorly lit.
- The valley serves as a base for Besakih, Tirta Gangga and Lempuyang, provided you leave early.
Sidemen looks like what you imagined Ubud to be before you got there: rice fields irrigated by the subak, villages where songket is still woven, Agung appearing between the clouds in the morning. Guesthouses are multiplying, but the valley remains agricultural. For the rules of the eastern temples, see Balinese temples and culture; for the valley’s songket and the geringsing of Tenganan, Bali crafts and markets.
Sidemen is a stop on the 10-day and 2-week itineraries, between Ubud and the Amed coast. The valley walks are compared with the volcanoes in hiking in Bali.
Sidemen at a glance
Sidemen is an agricultural valley in the east, about 1 h 45 from the airport. The atmosphere is rural and silent, the budget rather gentle, and two to three nights are enough. Avoid it if you need a variety of restaurants, nightlife, or if you hate narrow mountain roads.
| Criterion | Sidemen |
|---|---|
| Location | Valley in the east, in the Karangasem region, at the foot of Mount Agung |
| From the airport | About 1 h 45 by car |
| Atmosphere | Rural, agricultural, very quiet in the evening |
| Relative budget | Rather gentle: family guesthouses and a few hotels with a view |
| Recommended stay | 2 to 3 nights |
| Avoid if… | You want to go out in the evening, choose between many restaurants or avoid winding roads |
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Sidemen: who it suits and who it does not
Sidemen suits walkers, photographers, couples and anyone who wants to see an agricultural Bali that is still alive. It bores travelers who need organized activities, trendy cafés or a beach, and those who cope badly with very quiet evenings and rain.
Who it suits
- Walkers: paths between the rice fields, to do with a guide from the village.
- Those who want to see work in the fields and weaving.
- A first trip looking for quiet after Ubud.
- A stop on the way to Amed, which breaks up the road east.
Who it does not suit
- Those who want the sea every day: you have to get back in the car to find it.
- Travelers who like going out in the evening.
- Those who do not want to depend on a driver for excursions.
Where to stay in Sidemen: valley floor or hillside
In Sidemen, the valley floor puts you among the rice fields, the main road gives easier access to warungs, and the hillside offers the view of Agung at the price of steep roads. In every case, have dinner where you stay or a few steps away.
Along the main road
The road through the valley concentrates warungs, grocery shops and guesthouses. Practical without a vehicle, but you can hear the trucks and scooters going by.
In the middle of the rice fields
Guesthouses set in the fields, linked by dirt paths. Waking up in the rice fields is worth the detour; at night, it is very dark.
On the slopes
Hotels with panoramic views cling to the slopes. The access roads are narrow and steep: avoid them by scooter if you are a beginner, especially in the rain.
| Profile | Where | You gain | You lose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tight budget | Family guesthouses on the main road | Warungs on foot, family welcome | Road noise, limited view |
| Mid-range | In the middle of the rice fields | Fields when you wake up, silence | Muddy paths in rainy weather |
| Comfort | Hillside hotels | View of Agung, pool | Steep roads, dinner at the hotel |
What to see in Sidemen and the east
In Sidemen, the priority is a walk in the rice fields with a village guide and a visit to the weavers. Further afield, keep Tirta Gangga, the Klungkung palace and Tenganan. Besakih and Lempuyang are impressive, but require an early start and a willingness to put up with pushy guides or long queues.
Walk in the rice fields
Half a day with a village guide, between terraces, subak channels and small temples. It is the reason to come.
Weaving workshops
The songket and endek weavers work at home. One hour, buying directly if a piece appeals to you.
Gembleng waterfall
Small natural pools above the valley. A short walk; of little interest in the dry season, when the flow weakens.
Bukit Jambul
A viewpoint over the terraced rice fields, on the road between Klungkung and the highlands. A stop on the way.
Pura Besakih
The mother temple of Bali, terraced on the slopes of Agung. Half a day; turn down the self-appointed guides at the entrance and respect the ceremonies.
Kerta Gosa, Klungkung
The former royal court of justice with painted ceilings, in the heart of Semarapura. One hour, with the market next door.
Tenganan
A Bali Aga village with ancient traditions, known for its weaving. One or two hours; it is a lived-in place, not a museum.
Tirta Gangga
The water palace with pools and stepping stones. Go when it opens: one hour is enough, before the groups.
Pura Lempuyang
The “gates of heaven”, famous in photos for a reflection created with a mirror. The queue can take hours: skip it if you are short of time.
Where to eat in Sidemen
In Sidemen, you eat in the warungs on the main road and at the guesthouses, often at their table. The choice is limited and closes early: book your dinner at your accommodation if you stay in the rice fields or on the slopes. No trendy cafés, and that is just fine.
- The warungs on the main road: nasi campur, vegetables of the day, homemade sambal.
- Your guesthouse’s table: family cooking, often the best of the stay.
- The restaurants of the hillside hotels: a view, but unsurprising food.
- The Klungkung market, if you pass through: fruit, rice cakes, snacks.
Two days in Sidemen, moment by moment
The first day stays in the valley: a walk in the rice fields at dawn, the weavers, a nap, sunset over Agung. The second leaves early for Tirta Gangga and Tenganan, or for Besakih, coming back before the afternoon rain in the wet season.
| Moment | Day 1: the valley | Day 2: the east by car |
|---|---|---|
| Early morning | Guided walk in the rice fields | Leave for Tirta Gangga at opening time |
| Morning | Visit to a weaving workshop | Tenganan, Bali Aga village |
| Midday | Warung on the main road | Lunch on the road |
| Afternoon | Rest, Gembleng waterfall | Back to the valley before the rain |
| Late afternoon | Sunset facing Agung | Dinner at the guesthouse |
Common mistakes in Sidemen
In Sidemen, the most frequent mistakes: spending only one night, driving at night or in the rain on the hillside roads, trying to combine Besakih and Lempuyang on the same day, and accepting the first guide who comes along at Besakih. Also bring cash: ATMs are rare.
- Doing Sidemen in one night: you arrive tired and leave without having walked.
- Driving at night on the narrow valley roads: no lighting, tight bends.
- Accepting a pushy guide at the entrance to Besakih: find out about the official reception.
- Relying on your bank card: withdraw enough cash before heading up the valley.
Frequently asked questions
How many nights should I spend in Sidemen?
Two to three nights: one day for the valley, another to explore the east. A single night does not leave time to walk in the rice fields.
Sidemen or Ubud for rice fields?
Sidemen for living, little-visited rice fields, Ubud for culture, dances and the choice of restaurants. The two combine well on the same trip.
Do you need a scooter in Sidemen?
No: a driver by the day is enough for excursions, and the valley is best discovered on foot. The hillside roads are difficult for a beginner rider.
How long does it take from the airport to Sidemen?
About 1 h 45 by car. The road becomes narrow and winding as you approach the valley.
Sources
Figures and rules checked on October 17, 2026 against the sources below. Entry rules and fees change: always check them on the official websites before you leave.
